Maryland's "international city" is located just west of the College Park campus. It is fascinating to walk or drive west along University Boulevard from just east of Riggs Road in Prince George's County to Piney Branch Road in Montgomery County and then south on Prince Branch Road to Flower Avenue. Along this two mile stretch, there are scores of interesting international/ethnic restaurants as well as grocery stores, nightclubs, and specialty shops.
The languages most frequently spoken in this area are English and Spanish, but one can also hear Arabic, Chinese, Creole, French, Hindi, Khmer, Mende, Urdu, Vietnamese, Yoruba, and others. Almost all the people who deal with customers in the restaurants and other establishments speak English well enough to facilitate a transaction.
In past columns, I have reviewed a number of restaurants in the international city: Africana serving the food of Sierra Leone, the vegetarian Indian Udupi Palace and Swagat, Viet Deli, the Pakistani Tabeer, and others. This month, I would like to mention two more favorites.
Pho 75 (1510 University Blvd. just west of Riggs Rd., 434-7844; open daily 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.), named for the year owner Le Thiep arrived from his homeland to the United States, is in a small strip-mall that includes a Latino grocery store and a Chinese restaurant. (There are plans to move to a new location in the area.) Three Pho75 restaurants are now open in the Washington area, and each serves a marvelous yet inexpensive meal. The restaurant reviewer at our rival publication, the Washington Post, writes: "It's simple, it's cheap, it's authentic and it's wonderful." The word "pho" refers to beef and rice-noodle soup, the item that dominates the restaurant's menu. But it is no ordinary beef noodle soup; rather, the long-simmering stock pot has anise, ginger root, cinnamon, coriander, and other sources of flavor. Choices at Pho75 are confined to the beef cuts. Choices include brisket, flank, tendon, tripe and round steak, all added to the stock at the last minute for the final cooking. The pho is served with a side-dish of mung-bean sprouts, a wedge of lime, slices of green chili peppers, and fresh mint leaves; these and the table sauces such as dark plum can be added to the soup. Pho can be ordered in two sizes, regular (large!) for $4.25 and large (very large!) for $4.95. The regular size has never left me feeling hungry. The beef-alternative is chicken; a chicken-noodle soup has been added to the menu. Drinks (for $1.00 or $1.25) include black drop-pot coffee, salty plum juice, and soy milk. My favorite deserts are black-eyed beans with sweet rice and corn with coconut milk (both $1.25). Service is efficient, and lovely host Ah Tee provides a warm welcome.
El Gavilan (8805 Flower Ave. just west of Piney Branch Rd., 587-4197; open 11 a.m., closing 11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 12:30 a.m. Friday-Saturday) is owned and managed by the affable Ramon Arbaiza, who came to the United States from El Salvador in 1976. After working in area restaurants for thirteen years, he opened his own establishment 1990, expanded it in 1992, and opened a second restaurant (Chapala in Burtonsville) this year.
Every meal starts with chips and salsa picante; the latter is flavorful and thick. The menu features well-prepared dishes from Mexico and Salvador. There are nachos, tamales, and other appetizers (for up to $5 an order), main dishes (most in the $7-10 range) of burritos, chimichangas, enchiladas, fajitas, tacos, and "platillos mixtos" such as a "Petito's" ($7.95) with a chicken enchilada, chile relleno, and a pork tamale (served with beans, rice, and tomato pieces). I often order chicken fajitas which come with guacamole, tortillas, rice, beans, and tortillas ($10.50), and I have splurged with the jumbo shrimps -- for instance, stuffed with jalapeŇo and Monterrey Jack cheese wrapped in bacon ($12.50). An almost-everything main dish for two is the Plato Macho ($25.90). A tasty small salad is the pico de gallo, includes tomatos, lettuce, cilantro, and onions in a lemon sauce. It's a side dish that is included with some main dish orders. Imported beer (Negra Modelo, Corona Extra, etc.) works well, and flan provides a nice ending.
One of the pleasures of weekend dinner dining at El Gavilan is the live music: a keyboard player Friday evenings and two guitarists Saturday evenings. The terrific guitarists, from Bolivia and Ecuador, are called El Duo America.
Notes Shortly after my review of Asian Taste (8545 Piney Branch Rd. just north of Flower Ave.; 588-3075) was published last year, the couple that owned and managed the restaurant separated; the restaurant immediately closed. However, it has recently reopened with new ownership serving Vietnamese food, and early samplings have been quite positive. The 94-item menu includes pho!
Let me request that readers who have taken advantage of our "international city" neighbors let me know what their positive (and negative) experiences have been. And if you haven't been to the Maryland's international city yet, be sure to go.