Could it be that the College Park area is becoming a hot location for interesting new restaurants? The new Bethesda? Two very worthwhile new restaurants along University Boulevard raise the question.
Udupi Palace (1329 University Blvd. East, 434-1531) is a new lacto-vegetarian South Indian restaurant located in what once was a sari shop. (Thanks, Angie, for the tip.) Sister restaurants are located in New York and Chicago, so perhaps our area is making the big time! The menu offers a rich variety of appetizers, soups, dosai, uthappam, curries, pullavs, breads, and other dishes, all at moderate prices. Among the appealing appetizers are Kancheepurum Iddly ($3.25), steamed rice and lentil patties garnished with cashew nuts, carrots, and coriander, and Special Bonda (#3.25), a lentil dumpling with onions and potato. The dosai (rice and lentil crepes) are offered in twelve variations priced from $3.95 to $5.95. The uthappam, somewhat like pizzas (apologies to all Italians and all Indians), have such toppings as tomato, peas, onion, carrots, and coconut shreds, all for about $5. Malabar Adai ($5.25) is "pancakes" made from three different lentils as well as carrots, peas, and onions, all cooked Kerala style. The tasty Alu Paratha ($2.50) is a multi-layered whole wheat bread stuffed with potato, onion, and spices. Most dishes come with fascinating sauces: one is brown and soupy combining spices, various lentils and other vegetables; another is made from curry leaves, coriander seeds, dried chili peppers, and cumin seeds; and there are more. A delicious desert is Payasam, made of fine vermicelli cooked with milk and honey, and garnished with raisins and cashews. The drinks include mango lassi ($2.45). There are three special luncheon combinations priced at $5.95 to $6.95: Express, Madras, and Palace Special Thali. Some newcomer evaluations: Bob Dorfman, "Very good." Bob Griffith: "I'm coming back."
Cuzco (2051 University Blvd. East, 439-0044) is a new Peruvian restaurant located between Dunkin Doughnuts and the bowling alley about fifty yards south of University Boulevard. The owner is Peruvian Desi Camacuari. A typical meal begins with a tasty salsa verde served with bread, immediately guaranteeing that I will overeat. Most main dishes on the luncheon menu are in the $3.95-$6.95 price range. I've enjoyed Frutos del Mar, a mixed seafood salad, and Tamal Consalsa Criolla, sauteed chicken and corn pasta steamed in a banana leaf. A recent dinner began with a tasty Palta a la Reyna ($3.95), chicken and vegetables astride half an avocado topped with a mayonnaise sauce. The entre was an excellent Pescado a la Andalusa ($9.95), which is grilled fish (it was mahi-mahi on the last visit), shrimp, tomatos, and mushrooms in a nicely flavored white wine sauce. Also at dinner, I've had Pollo al Vino con Honcos ($7.95), a not-too-special breast of chicken in a wine and mushroom sauce with rice and three vegetables. Most main dishes come with a generous mound of rice. Side orders include Yuca Frita ($1.50) and Plantain ($1.50). My drink of choice is Chichu Marada ($2), a peppery grape-like combination of black corn, lemon and orange juice, pineapple, apple, cinnemon, and secret spices. An excellent desert is Crema Volteada ($2.50), similar to flan. Thanks, Paola and Masha, for your collegial evaluations.
Metro tip At Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant, 2434 18th Street NW in the heart of the Adams-Morgan neighborhood (telephone 202/462-4100), Ethiopians perform traditional music, song, and dance in the restaurant's lower level every Thursday night from about 10 p.m. until almost 2 a.m. Many of the performers have worked professionally in Ethiopia, and the instruments used include the kerar (a six-stringed harp-like instrument), the mesengo (a single string "violin"), and the atamo drums. Meskerem is one of the best Ethiopian restaurants in the area.
William John Hanna is a professor in the Urban Studies and Planning Program at College Park. Please Email your suggestions, evaluations, and...criticisms to him at BHANNA@BSS2.UMD.EDU.